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Published on Mar 24,2021
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Published on Mar 24,2021
Days are getting longer and weather is warming up! The change in seasons also means a new issue of Sip Magazine. Check out the Spring issue for warm weather cocktail recipes, spring beverage shopping lists, vineyard tours and more. Read More
Home Explore Sip Magazine ~ Spring 2021 Edition
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CELEBRATING WINES, BEERS, SPIRITS & CIDERS TM † Rockst ars of Milton-Freewater Latin Ask the Vineyards Cocktails Pros: Worthy of the With a PNW Beer Trends for 2021 Grand Cru Twist Designation SPRING 2021

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ONE YEAR … It has been one full year that we’ve been enduring the SPRING 2021 COVID-19 pandemic and now we’re finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. There have been many challenges for so many, professionally and PUBLISHER/CEO personally, but I’ve seen firsthand many shared successes, too. Our team at Sip has had to reimagine and reinvent itself on what feels like a weekly basis — I » Kristin Ackerman Bacon cannot express how tired I am of using the word “pivot” to describe what we are [email protected] doing. But it keeps us on our toes to stay current and relevant to the continuing changes throughout our region when it comes to keeping you informed. EDITOR During this last year we’ve launched several new digital programs such as » Steve Hansen our highly successful Facebook LIVE series, called The Full Pour, and have put [email protected] a huge focus on our social media platforms as well as producing daily online content. DESIGN DIRECTOR Randi Karabin/Karabin Creative We would like to say a big thanks to you, our loyal readers, for being so engaging and supporting Sip during this time! Now more than ever we’ve felt CONTRIBUTING WRITERS the love and know there is a need for a medium like Sip to educate and inspire Angela Prosper our readers. It is clear you want to discover the best the great Northwest has to Erin James offer when it comes to food and beverage! Kendall Jones Kerry Newberry Today, we are thankful. Thankful to be in business, thankful for our Mark Stock supporters, thankful for all the beverage artisans, thankful to be healthy and Molly Allen thankful to get to be part of this beautiful industry that’s made Sip Magazine the Northwest’s drink authority for the last decade. We hope you enjoy this Spring Nicholas O’Connell issue — an edition focused on gratitude, new beginnings and everything you should be sipping right now. CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Angela Prosper Be sure you’re signed up for our weekly newsletter (will link) and to follow us on social media to discover all the content our team of writers has worked so Blue Rose Pictures hard to share with you. CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Kristin Ackerman Bacon Melissa Ackerman Miller @thisismysip FINANCE MANAGER Chris Ackerman CELEBRATING WINES, BEERS, SPIRITS & CIDERS TM † RECIPES + PAIRINGS FOR PATIO PARTIES † 6 DRINK STOPS ON THE RIVER Rockst ars of Milton-Freewater Latin Ask the Vineyards Cocktails Pros: Worthy of the With a PNW Beer Trends for 2021 Grand Cru Twist Designation SPRING 2021 Cover Photo This issue’s cover features Rotie Cellars Tasting Room, located in the Rocks District in Milton-Freewater. Photo by Richard Duval Images, courtesy of Walla Walla Wine Alliance. SIP MAGAZINE 2

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† Contents 15 2 FROM THE PUBLISHER Departments 26 5 PICK S & GI F TS One year later and we are 7 DIY Features finally seeing a light at the end 8 ASK THE PROS 15 ON THE ROCKS of the tunnel. Publisher Kristin 10 T WO CENTS Ackerman Bacon shares with 11 BUYING GUIDE Take a tour of one of the most unique American us some insights from the past Viticultural Areas in the country, the Rocks year and what we have to be District. thankful for moving forward. 19 CIDER RU LES 19 Three years and one pandemic later, TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY ANGELA PROSPER; BOTTOM LEFT PHOTO BY KIMBERLEE MILLER Meriwether Cider Co. is becoming an anchor in the Boise beverage scene. 23 G R AN D CR U V I N EYAR DS O F TH E WE ST It’s hard not to wonder, if this country had a cru system, which vineyards would make the grade? Mark Stock breaks down eight of the best sites in the Pacific Northwest and explains what makes them special. 26 BEHIND THE BAR Elevate your cocktail creations with the alluring flavors of Latin American staples. Cocktail creator Angela Prosper shows us how with these carefully crafted recipes using Northwest spirits. 31 FATHERS & SONS Follow our four-step recipe to make your own coffee liqueur for personal sipping during cold winter evenings or gifting over. SIP MAGAZINE 3

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@ SipMagazine.com SIGN UP FOR OUR E-NEWSLETTER » RECIPE The Shipyard Punch at SipMagazine.com to Recipe by Fast Penny Spirits receive recipes, reviews, hear what producers are up to, discover the MAKES » 1 cocktail who/what/where of what is new and notable in Northwest beverage, 1.5 oz Amaricano Bianca learn about events in your area, get 1 oz Big Gin in on special giveaways and more — ½ oz pineapple juice conveniently delivered to your inbox 2 dashes Scrappy’s Bitters every other week. Lime bitters Through the newsletter and Shake and strain over ice. online, you’ll find tasty recipes Top with fizzy water and like the delicious spring cocktail garnish with a lemon round below from Fast Penny Spirits. and brandied cherry. » DRINK THAT EVENT Want to find the most up-to-date drink event listings and information in your area? Visit our calendar at SipMagazine.com/events to get on the wagon. » BE SOCIAL FOLLOW, FRIEND AND DM US! Connect on our social media channels and tell us which bevvies you’re sipping using the hashtag #thisismysip. Sip Magazine sip_magazine sip_magazine SIP MAGAZINE 4

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Picks & Gifts Cocktail Kits to Get Creative at Home BY MOLLY ALLEN CELEBRATING SUMMERTIME TRIED & TRUE NORTHWEST When the warmer weather hits, Raise a glass to the flavors of Oregon. WESTWARD’S TRUE NORTHWEST Moscow Mule season is officially OLD FASHIONED COCKTAIL KIT includes everything you’ll need to mix up here. Mix up delicious drinks an old fashioned, Northwest style. With hand-harvested sea salt and raw for relaxing in the backyard or carrot flower honey from Jacobsen Salt Co. on the Oregon coast, paired on the beach with this clever with Oregon hazelnut bitters and Westward American Single Malt Whiskey, BROVO SPIRITS’ MOSCOW MULE every ingredient to mix a drink and pay homage to local producers of the COCKTAIL KIT. Complete with Northwest will be on your doorstep in no time. Pike+Clark Vodka, BROVO Ginger Liqueur, ginger beer and $100 » westwardwhiskey.com even a dehydrated lime wedge, SIMPLE & SWEET CACHACA you can have everything to make a classic mule delivered straight to your door. The only thing that’s left to grab is Made with sugar and the crushed ice. lime, the Caipirinha is the national cocktail of Brazil. $50 » brovospirits.com And now, you can make this refreshing sipper at GET ACQUAINTED WITH GIN home. NOVO FOGO has the ideal CAIPIRINHA KIT to Get to know a variety of gins with TEMPLE DISTILLING’S make cocktails with ease, AT-HOME TASTING KIT. No two gins are alike, and as you taste including its Silver Cachaca, through five different options, you’ll be sure to find a favorite. a spirit made from sugar Plan an afternoon with this kit, complete with tulip glasses cane juice, along with a designed to capture the gin’s aromatics for the best experience. muddler and two cute Taste each option straight, and then mix your favorite with mason jars for shaking and tonic for a quick and delicious G&T. drinking your cocktail. Pair this kit with fresh limes for $35 » templedistilling.com the ultimate experience. $37 » novofogo.com SIP MAGAZINE 5

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DIY How to Turn Leftover Wine Into Vinegar BY MOLLY ALLEN It’s a difficult concept to grasp, but sometimes, you Vinegar Starter may find yourself with a bit of leftover wine. And while the likelihood of that may be slim, espe- To better control the process, you’ll want to add a vinegar starter cially for wine aficionados, it’s helpful to have a plan. of your own. In this case, use raw apple cider vinegar. Thankfully, you have options. And making your own vinegar from leftover wine may be the most delicious Combine option of them all. In a large jar or pitcher, add ½ cup of raw apple cider vinegar Pretty well any type of leftover wine, red or white, for every 1½ cups of leftover wine. can be made into vinegar, but there are some varietals that work better than others. According to Robb Finn, Aerate Executive Director of Carnation Farms in Carnation, Wash., it’s about balance. “Stick to the middle of the Cover the top of the container with cheesecloth or a dish cloth road,” he says of the varietals you might choose. “If and wrap it with a rubber band – it needs air to oxidize. For best you go too big on flavor, you may end up pulling out results, store your concoction in a cool, dry spot away from light. flavors you don’t want.” Let it Sit Finn says a Chardonnay may be too overpowering, whereas a younger Pinot Noir can be nice and balanced Now, it’s all about patience. Over the course of 2 to 4 weeks, without being too aggressive. And, of course, it’s easily the bacteria that is naturally in wine starts working with the accessible in the Pacific Northwest. But if you don’t oxygen, feasting on the remaining alcohol and sugar, turning it have any leftover good Pinot (and why would you?), into something called acetic acid. That’s the tanginess in vinegar. remember that any red or white wine can be turned into vinegar, some better than others. It all depends on Try It your flavor preferences, whether you’re hoping to pull some of the big, juicy flavor from a Cabernet or perhaps Once the fermentation process is complete, try the mixture citrus notes from a Sauvignon Blanc. to be sure it’s acidic and the raw vinegar has sunk to the bottom of the jar. Wine naturally oxidizes and turns into vinegar when left exposed to open air over time, so this use Strain It for leftover wine is the perfect fit. Here are the simple steps to make your own. l Once ready, strain the mixture to free it of any raw vinegar residue. PHOTO BY PETAR MARSHALL Bottle It Bottle your vinegar to use on salads, roast with vegetables, or to marinate meats. SIP MAGAZINE 7

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† Ask the Pros We ask. They tell. Five Pros Share Their Thoughts on Where the Pacific Northwest Beer Industry is Headed in 2021 BY RON SCOTT »‘Normal’ Releases » Innovative Beer Styles » Hyper Localization » Push the Envelope » Lower Calorie Options “2021 is starting “Our PNW brewing “What I’ve been seeing “Honestly, I hope “I see the craft beer out okay, and I look industry is resilient. for a few years which there will be a scene in the PNW forward to getting As we get deeper into I don’t think will be new steady focus going back to more more bars and 2021 and approach a particularly affected on innovation and traditional styles with restaurants back less COVID-limited by the pandemic is quality. Brewing what a big emphasis on open this year. We society, I see our the proliferation of the customer wants, lower-alcohol beer, as have a ‘normal’ beer industry doubling small, new breweries be it seltzer, slushies well as keto-friendly release calendar this down on innovative in all manner of or crisp clean Pilsners options. I am also year and are looking beer styles as well as communities, and will be the continued seeing a big movement forward to having rethinking business increased ‘hyper trend. We’ve seen going toward hard folks enjoy our beers models in order to localization’ of the a fair amount of seltzers. It really and come eat in our thrive. Packaged industry/market. attrition and the seems consumers restaurant. I really beer will remain That is, it seems like survivors have to not want lower calorie look forward to beer very important as craft beer consumers only push on, but also options. This year so festivals — maybe breweries find new are choosing small push the envelope.” far I have also noticed by this fall! I miss all ways to deliver breweries in their a big movement to the interaction with beer to individual areas that cater to —Jeff Stokes, support local, which guests and the beer customers utilizing their tastes.” Head Brewer at I am a huge fan of.” community.” digital tools.” Sig Brewing Company, —Kevin Emms, Tacoma, Wash. —Steven Black, —John Harris, —Jarek Szymanski, Brewmaster at Head Brewer at Founder and Brewmaster Owner and Head Brewer Old Abbey Ales, Granville Island Brewing, Abbotsford, BC, Canada at Ecliptic Brewing, at Threshold Brewing, Vancouver, BC, Canada Portland, Ore. Portland, Ore. SIP MAGAZINE 8

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CrCaHfEtCKBeOUeTrTTHrEail WASHINGTON STATE YVAAKLILMEYA Raise a pint steps from where we grow your beer. Meet the makers and taste hop country innovation at the tap. Plan your craft beer vacation in the largest hop growing region in the world! GO TO visityakima.com TO PLAN YOUR Weekend SIP MAGAZINE 9

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Two Cents BY KERRY NEWBERRY Q&A with DeAnna Ornelas education was the key factor. Through educa- tion and scholarships, we can show the next The President of AHIVOY on generation that there is upward mobility in Empowering Vineyard Stewards the wine industry — even if you start pick- ing grapes, or working the land — you can There’s a well-known saying in the There’s a lot of untapped move up to vineyard manager or foreman, or wine world, “great wine starts in the potential and knowledge in maybe sell or make wine. Additionally, with vineyard.” With that as inspiration, in the vineyard. I think we should a broader picture of the industry, vineyard 2018, a group of Oregon wine profession- shift the dynamic so that stewards can see the important part they play als honed in on vineyard stewards, the people in the vineyard are in the winemaking process. hidden backbone of the wine industry. valued equally as the people The result is AHIVOY (Asociación Hispana who are making the wine. Q: How is the program structured? de la Industria del Vino en Oregon y DO: The English-immersion program is very Comunidad), a nonprofit organization that exploratory and runs about 16 weeks. The has partnered with Chemeketa Community instructors cover just about every part of the College and Linfield University to provide industry from enology and vineyard manage- a professional training curriculum for ment to working in the cellar, and even sales Latinx and Hispanic vineyard stewards of and marketing. If a student wants to pursue the Willamette Valley. something further in any of those areas, we’ll be there to provide resources and help them The acronym by which the group is pursue scholarships, possibly financial aid, known, translates to “there I go.” We caught and help them navigate their next steps if up with DeAnna Ornelas, the president of they want to get a degree. AHIVOY, to learn more about this inspiring organization. Q: AHIVOY is the first of its kind. How do you see it shaping the future of the Oregon Q: Empowering vineyard stewards wine community? through education is the core tenet for DO: It’s been really great to see the people AHIVOY. Why is that vital? in our community, who aren’t owners or DeAnna Ornelas: When we first met about winemakers, understand how valuable and this program and reflected on what makes important vineyard workers are to their a person successful in the wine industry, success. As we work with the first cohorts, we’re taking input from instructors, from TOP PHOTO BY KATHRYN ELSESSER community members, as well as the students themselves, on what courses are the most beneficial. Our hope is to eventually take it to other regions of Oregon or possibly other parts of the country. Once we get it refined, this can be a stepping stone for some people who never thought of themselves in a higher education setting. Q: The pandemic brought a greater awareness to essential agricultural workers. What do you wish more consumers knew about these unsung heroes? DO: There’s a lot of untapped potential and knowledge in the vineyard. You have people who have been working for the same com- pany for 10 to 15 years, who really love car- ing for the vines and take pride in farming. I think we should shift the dynamic so that people in the vineyard are valued equally as the people who are making the wine. l S I P M A G A Z I N E 10

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Buying Guide $30 or Less BY ERIN JAMES Oaked Chardonnays 2018 Willamette Valley 2018 Willamette Valley 2019 Yakima Valley WINERY Adelsheim WINERY Sweet Cheeks WINERY Airfield Estates Newberg, Ore. Eugene, Ore. Woodinville, Wash. » This vibrant wine heroically swoops in with » This Southern Willamette winery recommends » Growing your own grapes can have many textbook Willamette Valley acidity to rescue pairing its luscious Chardonnay with crab advantages — one being a cost-effective those who thought they didn’t like Chardonnay. cakes. To that, we say, “yes, please.” Aged in solution to offering your wine at an affordable Juicy golden apple teams up with soft French oak barrels for nearly a year-and-a-half, price, like this $15 budget buy from Airfield minerality, floral notes and a light vanilla-oak aromas of soft, toasted oak and vanilla spice Estates. Spending time in stainless steel and oak character that offers more structure and weight mingle with golden apple, lychee and white vessels, this full-bodied Chardonnay plays the than butter and cream. Simple but bright and peach. Medium bodied and creamy due to best of both worlds with Bosc pear, honeydew, extremely drinkable, the acid leads the charge malolactic fermentation, the wine’s acidity brioche bread and a hint of honeycomb on the and reminds drinkers why Adelsheim is still comes through with food to lift up the palate nose while the palate brings in minerality, apple rocking after 50 years. and finish bright and clean. and vanilla undertones to the wide finish. 750ml | $28 750ml | $26 750ml | $15 2018 Snake River Valley 2018 Cuvée Lunatique 2018 En Croix, Rogue Valley WINERY Cinder WINERY J. Christopher WINERY Dancin Garden City, Idaho Newberg, Ore. Medford, Ore. » In Idaho’s Snake River Valley, mountain-pro- » No new oak barrels were harmed in the produc- » To be fair, this wine is a whopping $5 more tected, high-elevation vineyards receive hot tion of this vivacious Oregon Chardonnay. The than this list intends, but it’s worth the extra summer days and cool summer nights, creating winemaking team also steered clear of malolactic change to crow about this Southern Oregon intensely ripe fruit with buoyant acidity. This fermentation (the process that converts tart malic gem. The Rogue Valley gets quite a bit hotter Chardonnay is whole-cluster pressed and aged acid to creamier lactic acid). The result? A crisp, than its northern Oregon grape-growing regions, in stainless steel, French oak and black locust clean wine with notable traits of white peach, so this voluptuous Chard is broader than the rest barrels, crafting a silky and rich, mineral-driven juicy apple, limestone and orange blossoms, with of the lot – but not without its own salivating, wine. While ripeness and apple flavor come oak present only in the sound structure and linger- lingering acid. Lemon curd, red apple and Bosc through by the bushel, the toasty, full body is ing finish. Acid is unapologetic and raw, mirroring pear flesh out into butterscotch, vanilla and oak balanced with a tickle of acid. Chardonnays of Chablis. spice from time spent in 43% new French oak. 750ml | $23 750ml | $25 750ml | $35 PHOTO BY THOR RADFORD S I P M A G A Z I N E 11

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Buying Guide Gins for the Perfect Gin & Tonic BY ANGELA PROSPER Chapter One London Dry Gin Empress 1908 Gin Freeland Spirits Dry Gin DISTILLERY Temple Distilling DISTILLERY Victoria Distillers DISTILLERY Freeland Spirits Lynnwood, Wash. Sidney, BC, Canada Portland, Ore. » For a more nostalgic gin and tonic experience, » The first thing you’ll notice is the color, a » Good bones, savory, bold and tenacious. look no further than Chapter One London Dry mesmerizing tanzanite blue, the byproduct Master distiller Molly Troupe isn’t looking for Gin. Familiar but far from boring with black of butterfly pea blossoms that add an earthy subtle here. Juniper and pine lead into bright, pepper, floral perfume and pine oil aroma. Pot herbal silhouette to an ever-present juniper, peppery and prickly commotion, finishing with distilled over gentle heat using whole Italian coriander and citrus peel profile. Rose petals, kaffir lime, citrus blossoms and bee pollen. juniper, citrus peel and seven other botanicals. peppery ginger and black tea will soon follow. London Dry-style and navy strength, it isn’t for It’s happy hour somewhere, diehard gin fans, A mix of traditional and ultramodern, Empress the gutless. Sturdy yet graceful in every sip. and this gin is ready and waiting. Enjoy in true 1908 Gin is a collaboration between Victoria It needs no pairing, but if you must, go big or “Mad Men” style with a side of warm, savory Distillers and the legendary Fairmont Empress go home. olives tossed with orange zest and thyme. Hotel in Victoria, BC. When mixed with acid, this gin morphs like a puff of smoke into glassy 57% ABV | 750ml | $39 45% ABV | 750ml | $30 purples, petal pinks and swirling fuchsias. Break this out when the Royals stop by or those who Ransom Dry Gin Gin & Tonic Style Gin love a good magic trick. DISTILLERY Ransom Spirits DISTILLERY Scratch Distillery 42.5% ABV | 750ml | $40 McMinnville, Ore. Edmonds, Wash. ALOO Gin » Organic hops and marionberry — can’t get » The name says it all with a smell of DISTILLERY OOLA Distillery more Northwest than this. Oregon’s Ransom buttercream, herbal tea, lime peel and sweet Seattle, Wash. Dry Gin combines the maltiness and hop tonic. Scratch Gin & Tonic Style Gin blends 19 aromas of the genever style with a beautiful botanicals with non-GMO grains locally sourced » For a G&T that can please the masses, go with botanical infusion that adds a bit of surprise from Fairhaven Organic Mill in Washington’s and delight to your next G&T. Sweet apple Skagit Valley. Unintrusive juniper character, OOLA Distillery’s own ALOO Gin. Lemongrass, peel, fruit leather and strawberry jam aroma. smooth and slightly crème brûlèe, with a rose petals and violets on the nose. I enjoy the Violets, navel orange, anise and lime leaf on finish of grapefruit. Enjoy this G&T at your breezy casual hints of crushed leaves, ocean the palate make for a decidedly eccentric next brunch with a side of crunchy, crisp and mist and earthy funk on the finish. Intended but no less enjoyable experience. Always in peppery mixed salad greens. for bars and bartenders as a choice well gin, it season, enjoy this gin after a long misty hike quickly rose in rank for its charming personality with a side of foraged nuts and berries. 45% ABV | 750ml | $38 and quality. ALOO Gin is also a winner of the London World Gin award for best traditional 44% ABV | 750ml | $30 gin for the entire United States. Like a good bartender, it will get the job done every time – for everyone. 45% ABV | 1L | $25 PHOTO BY THOR RADFORD S I P M A G A Z I N E 12

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Buying Guide Helles Lager Helles Lager – A traditional German-style beer born in Munich. First and foremost, Helles is light, crisp, and never bitter, a perfect springtime prelude to the summer. BY KENDALL JONES Helles Lager Helles Lager Helles BREWERY Chuckanut Brewery BREWERY Stoup Brewing BREWERY Kulshan Brewing Bellingham, Wash. Seattle, Wash. Bellingham, Wash. » This beer has earned multiple gold medals » Although the process creates some » Light and golden, and very slightly hazy, the at the nation’s most prestigious beer judging challenges, Stoup ferments this one at an aroma of fresh bread rises to your nose with a competitions. It is a spot-on representation especially low temperature to help enhance the wee hint of herbs. Grainy-sweet malt flavors of the traditional style: sparkling clear, golden classic lager aroma and preserve flavor balance. finish dry, balanced by a whisper of hoppy blonde, with malt flavors dominating. Nary a The spicy-bright finish is provided by Adeena spice bitterness. Among other awards, this beer hint of hops; they are in the background adding hops — a new, American hop variety bred to won a highly coveted medal at the 2020 Great balance. A summer seasonal, available June resemble traditional European varieties. American Beer Festival. through September. 4.8% ABV | 16oz cans | $3 5% ABV | 500ml bottle | $5 5% ABV | 500ml bottle | $5 Helles Lager Helles Lager Lagerbier Hell BREWERY Lucky Envelope Brewing BREWERY pFriem Family Brewers BREWERY Wayfinder Beer Seattle, Wash. Hood River, Ore. Portland, Ore. » An inviting, bread-like aroma of grains and » Another multi-award winner, this one is a » This Portland brewery builds beautiful lagers a bit of corn draws your nose closer, making spring seasonal beer. The malt character is a bit and the one they call Hell is no exception. a promise that the flavor keeps. This beer is more complex than many other Helles, but it’s Crystal clear, golden and effervescent, a tiny snappy like a crisp, unsalted cracker. With a tiny still very light, refreshing and dry. Also setting it hint of new-world citrusy hop flavor combined bit of honey sweetness balanced by a tiny bit apart, pFriem’s rendition is the hoppiest of our with old-world noble hop spiciness sits atop of herbal hops, it is airy and petite, but hugely recommended beers, with faint notes of lemon, a biscuity, cracker-like body. Another of our quaffable. herbs and grass. recommendations that won a medal at the Great American Beer Festival. 5.0% ABV | 16oz can | $3 4.8% ABV | 500ml bottle | $3 ABV: 4.7% | 16oz can | $3 PHOTO BY THOR RADFORD S I P M A G A Z I N E 13

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Buying Guide Botanical Cider A fermented apple or pear base that has been infused with any combination of plant-based ingredients such as herbs, leaves, teas, nectars, etc. BY ERIN JAMES Solstice Saffron Lavender Perry Mandarin Juniper CIDERY Finnriver CIDERY Independent Cider CIDERY Bend Cider Co. Chimacum, Wash. Dryden, Wash. Bend, Ore. » Crafted in December in honor of the winter » The first botanical perry from this perry-spe- » Juniper is a botanical best known for its solstice, this earthy, sweetly scented cider cific producer, estate-grown pears are pressed crucial role in the production of gin. Courtesy offers warmth through herbal and spiced tones and fermented with two varieties of lavender of that role, it’s an herbal scent and flavor as the colder months transition to the less-cold grown in the Wenatchee River Valley. The synonymous with the spirit — which isn’t a ones of the Northwest. Saffron grown on the cidery and orchard are set at the foothills of the liquor enjoyed by all. Bend Cider wisely blends Olympic Peninsula — where Finnriver’s farm, Wenatchee Mountains, where the range offers the sharp, resinous and citrusy profile of the cidery and tasting room also reside — is blended both a scenic background and a fertile growing tart berry with mandarin orange, offering slight with certified organic Washington-grown apples region. This cider is delicate yet round, with a sweetness and juice appeal in a cider that even for a semi-dry sip that lingers with anise and kiss of lavender to accent the earthy, pear-for- gin loathers might consider. fennel. ward, medium-bodied sip. 6.9% ABV | 16oz 4-pack | $13 6.5% ABV | 500ml | $11 5.8% ABV | 500ml | $7 Cran-Jasmine Blush Hibiscus Elderflower Quince CIDERY Bandon Rain CIDERY Locust Cider CIDERY WildCraft Cider Works Bandon, Ore. Woodinville, Wash. Eugene, Ore. » The coastal Oregon cidery lightly filters its » Instead of tagging this cider with the moniker » This experimental craft cidermaker is all about mainstay Cranberry Apple cider, then ages it of “rosé” like many producers that mix pink the details. Three different handpicked, estate- for 10 months and infuses the tangy blend with coloring agents into cider tend to do, Locust grown quince varieties are fermented with wild green jasmine tea. The resulting limited-run aptly and transparently titles its hibiscus-infused yeast, then blended with Jonagold and Rome cider is bone-dry, with floral jasmine and subtle cider “Hibiscus.” Real hibiscus flowers are Beauty ciders and finished by ice-conditioning green tea notes pushing through the tart berry blended with Washington apples for a floral, the wine with potent elderflower. Bold in tree and apple foundation. Surprisingly session- and flamboyantly pink, tipple. Full of red berry fruit characteristics yet undeniably floral, this able and worth ordering a pint when on the fruit and sweet herbs, the semi-sweet cider cider showcases the spicy and complex diver- distanced patio to take in the ocean air. would pair quite well with roasted chicken. sity of quince accented with botanical prowess. 6.9% ABV | Draft | $7 6.0% ABV | 16oz 4-pack | $12 6.3% ABV | 500ml | $8 PHOTO BY THOR RADFORD S I P M A G A Z I N E 14

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OnRthoecks g BYERINJAMES A GUIDE TO THE ROCKS Geologists credit a trifecta of terroir for making DISTRICT OF the Rocks District one of the most unique American Viticultural Areas (AVA) in the country. This distinct MILTON-FREEWATER trio of soil, geology and landscape is what sets Oregon’s small- est AVA apart from the rest. With only 5.9-square miles, the Rocks is a border-strad- dling region that is a sub-appellation of the Walla Walla Valley (which also sits both in Washington and Oregon), most notably defined by its basalt cobblestone soils. These fist-sized stones (the soil) made their way to this loca- tion by way of fan-shaped landforms called alluvial fans (geol- ogy) that shifted as the Walla Walla River (landscape) sought new courses over time, as rivers naturally do. Set all of this at the foothills of the Blue Mountains that see plenty of diurnal shifts (hot summer days, cool nights) and you’ve got yourself a region worth defining on its own. PHOTO BY SJR VINEYARD/BROOKE ROBERTSON S I P M A G A Z I N E 15

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“The unique soil of the Rocks District of TASTE THE ROCKS Grosgrain 2019 Grenache Milton-Freewater AVA is its defining charac- teristic,” says Sally Murdoch, Oregon Wine » LOS ROCOCOS VINEYARD communications manager. “The cobblestones consist entirely of basalt, a dark-colored vol- With fruit from Los Rococos Vineyard, situated canic rock that was derived by erosion of the near the eastern border of the Rocks District, this Blue Mountains. The vines are forced to search Grenache might be light on color but is heavy on deeply through thick layers of cobble for the aromatics. Pepper, cranberry and tart raspberry water table underneath. It’s a tremendously hot come in a little hot but develop into a spiced and area in the summer, and the cobbles reflect the fully fruited nose. The palate matches with white heat back onto the grapes — almost mimick- pepper, grapefruit rind, crushed herbs and raspberry ing the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape [in preserves, sporting an unexpectedly bouncy acidity France].” for the light-bodied sip. | $36 Murdoch notes this rock-reflecting heat makes for very quick ripening and, on top of Saviah 2018 Syrah, that, there is a fairly consistent slope to the region, with no dramatic elevation gains and THE STONES SPEAK VINEYARD a consistent wind pattern, so that sun hits straight on. Contrastly, in the winter, tempera- Extra points for an on-the-nose estate title, Saviah’s The tures drop drastically which helps to preserve Stones Speak Vineyard was one of the first household names from the Rocks. An expressive nose of just-ripe macidity in the grapes. black fruit and soft, sweet sage leads into wet limestone The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater and plum. Living up to its moniker, terroir comes in received AVA designation on February 9, 2015, strong on the palate with salinity, bacon fat, olives and and is the only AVA whose boundaries were more black fruit and minerality. Juicy with mild acidity and gently hugging tannins, this wine touts texture PHOTO BY SJR VINEYARD/BROOKE ROBERTSON you’ll keep coming back for sip after sip. | $55 S I P M A G A Z I N E 16

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sdetermined by a single landform (alluvial fans) and TASTE THE ROCKS Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2019 Viognier single-soil series. Science aside, these soils are romantically titled IN THE ROCKS VINEYARD the “Freewater series” and provide the resulting wines from this region with definitively expressive This is Viognier for the kids who are seri- characteristics, like undeniable minerality from ous about Viognier — as in you have to be those soils to high pH (a fruit ripeness measure) on the allocation (or, at this time, waiting) and low acidity from the warm days. list to be able to purchase the $60 bottle. Syrah is nearly synonymous with the region, Fortunately, this bottle is worth the wait as it is found in more than 325 acres of the 343 and is all about the weight — viscosity, planted acres. “Syrah is a super expressive variety, supple roundness and full-bodied texture and you can pick up some really unique charac- that seems to mirror Chardonnay, but the teristics from this region,” says Steve Warner, wine was modeled after the Viogniers Washington State Wine president. “It has this of France’s distinctive Condrieu region. incredible mouthfeel that’s unlike any other vari- Tropical fruits meet apple blossoms and eties anywhere else. I am always looking for that apricot, while the mineral and salinity minerality in the mouthfeel and the nose, every- bring a whole other layer to this silky, thing from cured meat and smoke. I get really excited about these because you know when you’re luscious cake. | $60 having a wine from The Rocks.” While Syrah has received most of the glory The Walls 2018 Wonderful Nightmare Tempranillo from the Rocks thus far, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache are gaining coverage on the ground, with STONEY VINE VINEYARD Viognier, Tempranillo and even Chardonnay carv- ing distinct paths through these cobblestone soils. A welcome respite in a region known for Rhone There is one thing that is tricky about finding varietals, this Tempranillo shows why the Spanish wine from the Rocks: The vast majority of winer- grape can hold court here as well. Named for Ernest ies sourcing fruit from this region are located in Hemingway’s contradictory description of Spain’s Washington state. However, according to Tax and Running of the Bulls, Wonderful Nightmare is ripe Trade Bureau regulations, only wineries with facil- and red fruited with marion and boysenberries, while ities located in Oregon are able to slap the “Rocks that trademark brine and freshly rained-on stone District of Milton-Freewater” on their label. This quality shine through on the palate. Leaner and means you might have to do some digging to see if brighter than anticipated, this wine is earthy, juicy the label sporting “Walla Walla Valley” is actually and clean. To the naysayers of Rioja for its rusticity, using fruit from the Rocks. But the effort is decid- edly worth it. We’ve done some digging for you. this could change your mind on Tempranillo. | $48 The five wines featured are a good place to start. l Delmas 2018 Syrah Look for more guides to the SJR VINEYARD Pacific Northwest’s unique AVAs This is textbook Rocks Syrah: bold and ripe with online at sipmagazine.com blackberries and huckleberries, fig, smoked and cured bacon adding salinity, heaps of mineral, hints of crushed herbs and a tickle of acid to lift it up the full-bodied wine. The latter might come courtesy of co-fermenting with 7.5% Viognier, which also adds bright, floral aromatics and a sprightly attitude. The palate is silky and opulent, and continues to offer more umami-laden luxury as it opens with air. An allocated production, Delmas wines are proudly positioned around its estate property, SJR Vineyard, a 13-acre site at the edge of the Rocks since 2007. | $80 S I P M A G A Z I N E 17

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RCiudleers Meriwether Cider Co. Plants its Cider Roots in Boise BY STEVE HANSEN Boise’s throbbing Eighth Street in downtown is the place to go if you want a drink. Or, at least, if you want a lot of choices. In the best of times, restaurants and bars spill over with drinkers, eaters and partiers, all who easily mix together. And even now, during the pandemic, that’s still the case – this is Idaho, after all. Lively and bright, this is the place to be if you are a brewer or bar owner. So in 2018, when a jewelry store was acquired to become another drinking establishment with 20 taps, just one short block away from bustling Eighth Street, it was no surprise. What was surprising was that it was Meriwether Cider Co., a nine-employee family-run cidery. Could a cider house amidst the ever-growing conflagration of Bosie’s breweries and bars possibly find success? Three years and one pandemic later, the answer is decidedly “yes.” S I P M A G A Z I N E 19

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WILLING TO EXPERIMENT It’s not that cider in the Northwest isn’t doing well. It is. Local cideries have long benefited from a combination of the regions’ reputation both as the nation’s foremost apple producer and as a craft-beverage mecca. As an example, Executive Director Emily Ritchie says that, when the Northwest Cider Association started in 2010, it worked on behalf of seven craft cideries. Today, in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana and British Columbia, according to Ritchie, the number of cideries (both NWCA members or not) is more than 200. Despite its growth, cider can still some- times find itself as the oft-forgotten middle child of the Northwest craft beverage scene, especially in Idaho. Meriwether Cider Co. is one of those 200 cideries Emily Richie talks about. In 2016 Gig Leadbetter and his wife, Ann — both outdoor adventurers, wildland firefight- ers and, later, college professors — started making and serving Gig’s handcrafted ciders in a nondescript Garden City, Idaho, busi- ness park. They were joined by their two daughters, Molly Leadbetter and Kate Pettis, themselves also wildland firefighters. Starting a cidery wasn’t originally a part of the plan. Gig is a tinkerer, who had long been a home-brewer and who had also started making wine. Then cider. Lots of it. “He’d host parties, ones everyone would want to come to and where they would try his newest ciders,” says Molly, co-owner and Gig’s youngest daughter. “Then he’d pass out questionnaires to find out what they think. “My dad comes at it not like an artist, but like a scientist,” Molly adds. That’s still the case, just a few years later, as Meriwether Cider Co. has grown to the point where last year, it produced approx- imately 33,000 gallons of cider. Known for clever varieties and a willingness to exper- iment, Meriwether avoids added sugars – always allowing the fruit to fully come forward without being overly sweet. Case in point: Even Meriwether’s most popular cider “Blackberry Boom” has a lovely never-sweet S I P M A G A Z I N E 20

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taste that remains so all the way to the bot- tom of the pint glass. “There’s a huge difference in what the ‘sweet’ is,” Molly says, who can often be found behind the bar at the Meriwether Cider House on the corner of Ninth and Bannock. “Natural fruit sugars just hit your palate differently.” CIDER AS A BLANK SLATE This past year has been incredibly dreary for most businesses – and for the craft beverage sector, specifically. To survive, cidermakers, like brewers, had to quickly figure out how to pull kegs off the line and, instead, bottle or can more of their product. Perhaps because many craft cidermakers are, from the out- set, largely no-frills and nimble, they came through extremely well. Citing American Cider Association and Nielsen data, Ritchie says that off-premises cider sales rose 20 percent nationwide during the pandemic, and that the Northwest “swamped” other regions with a 46 percent increase. Those off-premises sales don’t offset the losses from the lack of keg sales, but it helps. For Meriwether, they made roughly the same amount of cider in 2019 (pre-pandemic) as they did in 2020 — around 33,000 gallons. (By comparison, Ritchie estimates that about half of Northwest Cider Association mem- bers make less than 10,000 gallons a year.) Bottling cider, of course, is more cost-inten- sive than kegging it, but there’s a hope that the uptick in bottle sales from wholesale distribution could mean Meriwether might have an expanded base of cider-drinkers post-pandemic. What everyone is really hoping for, of course, is for the bars, restaurants, tap houses, cideries, farmer’s markets — and anywhere else you can get a drink —  to open up fully and get back, at least closer, to where things were. Even so, “Cider isn’t at its carrying capac- ity,” says Molly. She’d like to see more cider- ies establish themselves in Idaho, and in the greater Boise area in particular. The way she sees it, competition among cideries isn’t the issue. Getting people open and familiar with cider is the issue. Meriwether Cider House S I P M A G A Z I N E 21

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backs that up by making sure they have sev- eral of their 20 taps feature cider from what might be otherwise considered competitors. “Any cider in anyone’s hands is good for the whole cider industry,” she says. If that’s how cidermakers can hold their own — and grow — in a market saturated in beer, especially in Idaho where there is comparatively little craft cider available and there’s a larger learning and educational curve. Molly says Meriwether is all in. The trick is simply getting cider in front of peo- ple. “Cider is a blank slate – there’s no tradi- tions to stick to,” she says. That, of course, is not exactly right. The tradition of cider is extremely long. According to Amy Stewart in her terrific The Drunken Botanist, when the Romans invaded England in 55 BCE, they took a keen inter- est in what their new subjects were doing with apples, ultimately becoming expert cidermakers themselves. So too, over the centuries, the English, French, Spanish and Basque people (to name a few) all developed their own apple fermenting traditions. Here in the United States, too. Apple trees for cider were planted by the very first colo- nists, after all. But Molly has an important point. Unlike wine and beer, the popular perception of cider is, indeed, a blank slate. Or, pun intended, it is fluid. Even though people have been making cider for millennia, at least here in the United States, there isn’t a preconceived notion what it should taste like. “You don’t get that with beer or wine — no one is going into a brew- ery and saying ‘I’ve never had a beer before, what should I get? I’m not sure I’ll like it,’” Molly says. “But with cider we get that daily, and it’s such a gift!” That means cidermakers, if they are going to make their mark in a world satu- rated by beer, simply need to keep at it – by experimenting, offering variety and getting more of their product on the taste buds of consumers. And Meriwether Cider Co., including their Cider House in downtown Boise, is up to the task. “There cannot be a person that hates all cider,” Molly says with a smile. l S I P M A G A Z I N E 22

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Seven PNW HighhonorsBYMARKSTOCK Growing Areas that Deserve the Esteemed ‘Grand Cru’ Label There is no Grand Cru designation in American With so much quality going to barrel and tank in an viticulture. The system is decidedly French, increasing number of appellations in the American west, born in Bordeaux ages ago and still a hallmark of we can’t help but wonder what a Cru system might look prestige and caliber. Like Champagne or White like here. Our sprawling regional wine playground is now Burgundy, it was always something fenced in by home to third-generation vintners and vines more than a Old World borders. half-century in age. In other words, we also tout heritage and bonafide wine culture, something not always tied to Napoleon devised the system back in 1855 the stateside scene. Yet, anybody with as little as an internet as a means of rating Bordeaux vineyards and connection and as much as a lengthy trip into Walla Walla, appealing to international wine tourists. It stands McMinnville or Medford knows as much. today, overseen by the French government and practiced in most major domestic growing areas. What if we adopted such a system? Of the thousands Grand Cru denotes the most esteemed sites in of vineyard sites in the Pacific Northwest, which ones are much of France, a sort of Michelin Star rating for deserving of such esteem? These are fluid questions teeming the wine scene there. with subjectivity, a microcosm of the wine industry itself. But that hasn’t kept us from chatting up producers, sampling through estates and wondering which vineyards in Oregon and Washington offer a Grand Cru-like level of excellence, uniqueness and, for a lack of a better term, magic. S I P M A G A Z I N E 23

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With so much quality going to Seven Springs Vineyard barrel and tank in an increasing » EOLA-AMITY HILLS (OREGON) » PLANTED: 1984 number of appellations in the Seven Springs hardly needs an introduction, a remarkable American west, we can’t help Willamette Valley site planted primarily to Pinot Noir and but wonder what a Cru system a bit of Chardonnay and Gamay. It captures everything the might look like here. What if we rising Eola-Amity Hills appellation offers, from tempering adopted such a system? Of the Van Duzer corridor winds to extended ripening periods. thousands of vineyard sites in the Pacific Northwest, which ones are Ian Burch makes wine for Archery Summit and has worked with Seven Springs fruit for years. He feels honored deserving of such esteem? to get a share of the fruit and is mesmerized by the resulting wine’s depth and texture. “It’s an iconic vineyard site that transcends talent, humbles the bold, rewards the brave and shows itself purely through every winemaking iteration,” he says. The vineyard took on celebrity status when somme- lier and vintner Rajat Parr bought it with partner Sashi Mooreman in 2015. The exceptional fruit is showcased through Parr’s label, Evening Land, along with celebrated outfits like W.T. Vintners and Bethel Heights. SJR Vineyard » THE ROCKS DISTRICT OF MILTON-FREEWATER (OREGON) » PLANTED: 2007 Wild and rugged, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater is home to bumpy terrain and dramatic weather conditions. It’s the backdrop of SJR Vineyard, responsible for some of the best Syrah in the country, if not beyond. The Robertson family and its label, Delmas, oversees the site, with fruit also allotted to acclaimed producers like Force Majeure and Pasxa. Director of Winegrowing Brooke Robertson is behind some of the most inventive and meticulous viticulture in the Northwest. She and her crew have had to replant SJR three times in its 14-year lifespan due to deep end-of-sea- son freezes. Regardless, the site pushes on and the clusters continue to sparkle, showing exotic fruit characteristics and unfathomable depth. Delmas created a field blend for the first time in 2020 and is looking forward to working more with its tiny but exciting Cinsault block. Maresh Vineyard » DUNDEE HILLS (OREGON) » PLANTED: 1970 It’s hard to imagine a more iconic setting than Maresh Vineyard. The Dundee Hills site, rooted in brick red Jory soil, fades into a horizon of evergreens, punctuated by a rustic barn overlooking it all. The fifth oldest Oregon vineyard, Maresh is planted to mostly Pommard and Wadenswil Pinot Noir clones as well as some Chardonnay. The vineyard is a big reason why the Dundee Hills is as highly regarded as it is and vintners all over the valley and beyond tout its refined fruit. S I P M A G A Z I N E 24

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Crater View Vineyard Dineen Vineyard » ROGUE VALLEY (OREGON) » PLANTED: 2006 » RATTLESNAKE HILLS (WASHINGTON) » PLANTED: 2001 Farmed by Quail Run Vineyards, Crater View is a relatively Set in the Yakima Valley outside of Zillah, Dineen is a hill- unknown estate touting a distant glimpse of iconic Crater Lake. top estate rooted in silty soils. There are 90 acres of rows, The gorgeous Rogue Valley estate produces exceptionally ripe devoted to own-rooted Bordeaux and Rhone varieties fruit and rests between 1,500 and 1,625 feet in elevation. Some including Semillon and Petit Verdot. The resulting wines producers say the resulting wines from here remind of the tend to project a certain richness, with refined tannins highly expressive Pouilly-Fumés of the Loire Valley. and outstanding color in the glass. Those with access to the fruit include Dineen, Two Vintners, Sightglass Cellars and Winemaker Leah Jorgensen pulls Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Obelisco, among others. Sauvignon Blanc from the vineyard (there’s also Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Grenache growing). In addition to the tremendous min- Tim Armstrong makes wine for Armstrong Family erality tied to the fruit, Jorgensen is enamored by the geological Wines. He says there’s something singular about the Cab pedigree. “It’s special for a number of reasons,” she says, “but, Franc he gets from Dineen. Armstrong appreciates the in particular, because of the ancient marine shellfish scattered farming ethos, along with the aspect, elevation and soils. throughout the site from the subduction episode that happened “The physical site is really special and I always enjoy visit- 250 million years ago.” ing,” he says. As for the wine, he says it’s “pure but layered and the aromatics from this Cab Franc are just so elegant.” Ciel du Cheval Kiona Estate Vineyard » RED MOUNTAIN (WASHINGTON) » PLANTED: 1975 Known for its complex Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, Ciel du » RED MOUNTAIN (WASHINGTON) » PLANTED: 1975 Cheval is also home to Barbera, Cunoise, Sangiovese, Roussanne Part of the Red Mountain old guard, Kiona’s estate vine- and Mourvedre, among others. The 102-acre, meticulously-man- yard touts a little over 60 acres devoted to eight grape vari- aged site rests at the heart of the distinctive Red Mountain AVA eties. Here, amid extraordinarily dry conditions courtesy and yields dramatic fruit beaming with intensity. What’s in the of Washington’s warmest appellation, Chardonnay daz- dirt? Primarily sandy loam otherwise known as Scootney, high zles, Merlot offers impeccable balance and Chenin Blanc is in pH and jam-packed with calcium carbonate. Labels like Mark converted into a delightful ice wine. There’s even 13 acres Ryan, DeLille, Cana’s Feast, Cadence and Andrew Will source of Lemberger, a real rarity in the western hemisphere. If fruit from this storied site and, as of 2012, the Ciel du Cheval you’re looking to experience the historic vineyard, look for label has done the same. the eponymous label as well as wines from Rasa, Gorman, Fidelitas and Betz. l Temperance Hill » EOLA-AMITY HILLS (OREGON) » PLANTED: 1981 Talk to any winemaker in Oregon and they’re likely to mention Dai Crisp. The beloved grower has looked after Temperance Hill since 1999, headquartered atop what’s believed to be an ancient volcano. The organic vineyard climbs to 860 feet, the highest planted point in the AVA, allowing for slow and even ripening and a relatively cool microclimate. Estate Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines flourish in volcanic soils like Jory, Nekia and Ritner. Some 26 labels pull from this 100-acre site, including captivating vineyard-designate work from St. Innocent, Brooks and Bergstrom. LEFT PHOTO BY REMY GONZALO ON UNSPLASH S I P M A G A Z I N E 25

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La Buena This time of year, who doesn’t long for warm Vida beaches, sweet drinks and vibrant cultures? PHOTOS AND STORY As winter seems to last forever, it is essential BY ANGELA PROSPER to find creative ways to bring a little warmth into our homes. And if we are going to do that, Northwest Spirits meet why not make sure that warmth conjures up Traditional Latin American Flavors the vibrancy and flavor of Latin America? Elevate your cocktail creations with the alluring flavors of Latin American staples, from Mexico’s refreshing street-market staple, horchata, to the fruity chicha morada of Peru or the “buzz” worthy yerba mate of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. When combined with carefully crafted Northwest spirits, they bring the essence of La Buena Vida right back home to you — that’s “The Good Life.” S I P M A G A Z I N E 26

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Tango & Mate Aquafaba is chickpea water straight from the can, and believe me when I tell you, I have quickly become a fan of yerba mate. This pre-Colombian it makes for a superior vegan foam that is beverage is a beautiful alternative to coffee with its honey-sweet smell, powerful nutrients and a bit of smoky char. Popular in pleasantly light and airy on the palate. many Latin American countries, it has become my go-to for that quick energy boost without the jitters. For a bit more flair and S I P M A G A Z I N E 27 not much hassle, this cocktail adds the smoky herbal notes of yerba mate with the award-winning CAMP 1805 SURVEYORS BOURBON BARRELED RUM, a smooth rum that is double distilled then aged in bourbon barrels for over four years. Tchim-tchim! »MAKES 1 cocktail INGREDIENTS 2 ounces Camp 1805 Surveyors Bourbon Barreled Rum ¾ ounce Yerba Mate Syrup (recipe follows) ¾ ounce lime juice GARNISH Mate Foam (recipe follows) and loose mate leaves DIRECTIONS Place all ingredients in a shaker, top with ice, cap and shake vigorously to combine. Strain into a coupe glass, then top with mate foam and mate leaves and serve immediately. Yerba Mate Syrup »MAKES about 1½ cups INGREDIENTS 1 cup water 1 cup sugar ¾ cup loose yerba mate leaves Pinch of salt DIRECTIONS Bring all ingredients to a simmer over medium heat, then remove from heat and let infuse for 15 minutes. Strain out the solids and store the refrigerated syrup for up to a month. Mate Foam »MAKES Enough for 2 cocktails INGREDIENTS 1 ounce aquafaba 2-3 teaspoons Yerba Mate Syrup DIRECTIONS Combine together aquafaba and Yerba Mate Syrup and whisk using an Aerolatte milk foamer or latte frother until soft peaks form. Use immediately for topping your cocktails. l

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Corazón Morada »MAKES 1 cocktail If horchata is as old as time, then chicha morada is downright prehistoric. INGREDIENTS More than a refreshing Peruvian thirst quencher, it has been used for 1-2 ounces Wild Roots Apple & centuries as a medicinal elixir in sacred ceremonies and celebrations. Chicha morada is a wonderful non-alcoholic experience on its own, Cinnamon Vodka but for a little buzz without losing the integrity of the drink, you 4-6 ounces Chicha Morada can’t go wrong with Oregon’s own WILD ROOTS APPLE & CINNAMON VODKA. Naturally infused with over a pound of fruit, Wild Roots adds (recipe follows) a sweet and tart note without being sticky sweet, and the cinnamon is subtle enough not to overpower. When combined with this traditional GARNISH Andean beverage, it is a match made in heaven. Kawsaypac! Burnt cinnamon stick and frozen pineapple DIRECTIONS Skewer 3 to 4 frozen pineapple cubes on a long cocktail pick, then add to a brandy snifter and set aside. Combine the remaining ingredients into a shaker and top with ice, cap and shake vigorously to combine. Strain over the pineapple ice cubes and garnish with a burnt cinnamon stick. Chicha Morada »MAKES about 4 -5 cups INGREDIENTS 1 pound of dried Peruvian purple corn on the cob 2-3 cinnamon sticks 10 whole cloves or more to your liking 1 whole pineapple skinned and cut into 1 ½ inch cubes (keep the skin but discard the leaves and crown) 2 green apples cut into quarters 8 cups of water ½ cup demerara sugar 2 limes, juiced DIRECTIONS In a large pot, lightly toast the corn cobs, and spices until fragrant. Then add pineapple skins, apples and water. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and let it simmer covered for about 30 minutes to an hour – you are looking to reduce the mixture to about half, so keep an eye on it. Once reduced, remove from heat and let sit for an additional 10-15 minutes to cool before removing all solids and spices with a mesh strainer. Add sugar and lime juice and store refrigerated for up to one week. Pineapple skins are a popular ingredient in many Latin American beverages but don’t throw away all that delicious pineapple fruit. Be sure to freeze the pineapple cubes to add to a drink later, plus they make an even sweeter treat once the drink is long gone. S I P M A G A Z I N E 28

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Mama »MAKES 1 cocktail Horchata INGREDIENTS Horchata may be as old as time itself, 1 teaspoon strawberry preserves but it’s an everyday indulgence for many 1-2 ounces Tommy Bahama Tommy no. 2 Rum who frequent Mexican street markets 4-6 ounces Spiced Cocoa Horchata and restaurants. When combined with award-winning TOMMY BAHAMA TOMMY (recipe follows) NO. 2 RUM, it becomes a vacation in every sip. The buttery smooth flavors of GARNISH Tommy no. 2 blends seamlessly with the 1 teaspoon strawberry preserves and nutty sweetness and spice of this toasty horchata, so much so, you will want to keep popped amaranth rim it on hand for those especially grueling WFH days. Tommy no. 2 is rested in white DIRECTIONS American oak barrels for a minimum of Rim a rocks glass with popped amaranth by eight years, and is 80 proof, so it is sure lightly wetting half the rim with lime juice or to bring on those relaxing vibes. ¡Salud! thinned strawberry preserve, then set aside to set. Add rum, horchata and strawberry preserves to a shaker and top with ice, cap and shake vigorously to combine. Strain over cracked ice, then top with more strawberry preserve. Spiced Cocoa Horchata »MAKES 3-4 cups INGREDIENTS 5 cups water 2 cups jasmine rice 2-3 cinnamon sticks 1 tablespoon cracked roasted cocoa nibs 1 tablespoon allspice berries ½ cup of whole almonds (optional) ½ cup agave syrup DIRECTIONS In a saucepan, heat the water over medium heat until simmering, then remove from heat and set aside. Toast the rice, spices, almonds and cocoa nibs in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant and golden, stirring regularly while trying not to burn the ingredients. The house will fill with a fantastic aroma! Remove from heat and add to a food processor or blender, blending to a coarse grind. Pour the toasted ingredients into the water, add the agave and stir to combine. Let cool to room temperature, then store overnight in the fridge to bring out the flavors. The next day, strain out the solids through a fine-mesh sieve and keep refrigerated until ready to use for up to a week. Popped amaranth can be found in specialty markets and online. It brings out the nutty flavors of horchata and is worth the extra step. S I P M A G A Z I N E 29

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private beachwelcome to your Available at finer retail establishments. and online at: www.CaskCartel.com Scan Code to Shop Now! SCRATCH DISTILLERY PATIO AND TASTING ROOM Edmonds, WA • www.scratchspirits.com • 425-673-7046 S I P M A G A Z I N E 30

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FatahndeSros ns When Northwest Wineries Beaux Frères Make it a Family Affair The 2017 harvest was a stress fest at Beaux Frères in Family goes together with wine. The Newberg, Oregon. The winery’s yields, or harvest- long-term nature of the wine business, the able grapes, were 30 percent higher than normal, emphasis on pride of place and the devotion to requiring that they process 12,000 cases of wine in a craft favor family operations. European houses facility designed for 10,000. All this came on top of have a long tradition of family run operations 20-hour days and backbreaking work. and now new world Northwest winemakers are getting into the act, passing along their President Mike Etzel and his son, winemaker Mikey wineries and values to the next generation. Etzel, argued about the best way to determine yields. Mike favored an impressionistic approach, walking BY NICHOLAS O’CONNELL the rows and estimating yields. Mikey favored a more methodical way of judging yields. The long hours and exhausting work caused the argument to boil over. “I quit,” said Mikey finally. “I’m out of here.” He walked back to his house, intending to leave the winery and move on. After collecting himself, Mike swallowed his pride and walked over to his son’s house and apologized. “Harvest can be painfully stressful,” said Mike. “With my crew, if I say, ‘Jump,’ they say, ‘How high?’ Mikey would question why. In the early years, Beaux Frères was basically me. Over the years I’ve learned the art of delegation.” S I P M A G A Z I N E 31

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Father Mike Etzel (left) and son Mikey (below) have been working together at Beaux Frères since 2016. “It’s a higher sense of meaning to work in a family business,” Mikey said. “It’s way more fun and more meaningful.” Beaux Frères, like a growing number of Northwest he said. “To transfer such heritages to the next generation, it wineries, is a family business. There is a generation of is the disposition of mind of a custodian more than that of a Northwest winemakers that has passed the torch to the proprietor.” next generation, often sons and sometimes daughters. How do they hand down their ethics and values as well Mikey grew up on the family farm and learned how to work as the business operation to the next generation? How on it. He left to study at Oregon State University’s enological do the children adjust to working with their parents? program, graduating in 2008. After stints in Spain and the How can they leave their signature on the enterprise? Willamette Valley, Mikey joined Beaux Frères as head wine- Three iconic Northwest family wineries explain how maker and viticulturist in 2016. His time away from Oregon they make it work. gave him a vital global perspective on the wine business. Founded in 1988 by Mike and his brother-in-law, “We are competing not just in Oregon,” Mikey said. “We are wine critic Robert Parker, Beaux Frères routinely earned a world organization competing on the world stage. Let’s not be 90-plus scores from influential industry publications like closed-minded in our approach to winemaking and marketing.” The Wine Spectator. Still, as the business grew, the inevita- ble challenges occurred. After the 2017 harvest, the Etzels Today, Mike serves as president and founding partner, over- decided a division of labor would work best. seeing the whole company. Mikey is being groomed to take over that role, too. The collaboration between father and son has paid “After I walked out, we came to a better consensus,” off handsomely at Beaux Frères, with stratospheric wine scores Mikey said. “During harvest, we’ll collaborate on the first and an enviable customer base. All of this comes together in pick. Once we get into the big pushes and strategy of the wines like the 2018 Beaux Frères Vineyard Pinot Noir, which picking, my dad is going to be in the vineyard, managing earned a 95 from The Wine Spectator. the picking. I’m going to stay in the cellar. I’m in charge of processing. In 2018, we implemented this plan and it “It has a telltale aromatic nose,” Mike says. “There’s no recipe. minimized the stress.” It’s a dynamic thing. We make decisions based on feelings and intuition.” Despite the challenges, the Etzels see clear reasons for running a family winery. Though their palates differ, Mike and Mikey combine forces to craft stunning wines. “There are many advantages,” Mike said. “We own a percentage [of Beaux Frères], but we are owned by the “It’s a higher sense of meaning to work in a family business,” French [Maisons & Domaines Henriot]. One reason they Mikey said. “There’s a blurring of lines between the personal purchased us is because we are a family business.” and the professional. It’s way more fun and more meaningful.” According to Gilles de Larouzière, President of S I P M A G A Z I N E 32 Maisons & Domaines Henriot, the company especially values family wineries. “As a family-owned winery we have always paid a lot of attention to keep a long-term view and take care of our domains with the inextinguish- able desire to pass them over to the next generations,”

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Cathedral Ridge Winery It was a website that turned Cathedral Ridge Winery into a family Robb Bell business. Owner Robb Bell needed one built and asked his son, John Bell, to help. John worked in advertising and promotion for Located amid the spectacular natural setting of the Fortune 500 brands and had long been intrigued by the winery. Columbia Gorge, the winery is named after Cathedral Ridge on nearby Mt. Hood. Renowned for windsurf- “We had access to state-of-the-art [marketing] tools from ing, mountain biking and hiking, the region also friends,” John said. “This was a fun brand for them to work on.” boasts an amazing array of microclimates, allowing cultivation of a wide variety of grapes. John, 55, began building the site, teaching Robb, 77, about the world of digital marketing and how it could benefit the winery. “Our strength is a function of the region,” said Before buying the winery in 2003, Robb enjoyed a long career in Robb. “At Hood River, you are within two hours of the print and broadcast marketing. He knew the concepts, but not the Rhine, the Rhone, Bordeaux and Burgundy.” details of the digital landscape. This wide variety of microclimates allows “I showed him the digital marketing of competitive name winer- Cathedral Ridge to produce a range of wines, from ies,” John said. “You can see their success clearly. We’re a destination white to red, with an emphasis on the bigger reds like winery. We have to bring our visual experience to life, creating the 2016 Winemaker’s Reserve, a Bordeaux-inspired virtual tours so people see it.” red blend of Malbec, Cab Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. John’s marketing experience impressed Robb, who liked the idea of a family winery as long as it ran as a business. While it can be counterintuitive to sell such wines in Oregon, a state renowned for Pinot Noir, John “He understands his stuff,” Robb said. “Family is great when enjoys the challenge of working with his dad to make we handle it like business. People sense that it’s more than just a it happen. business, but you set up the rules like you would for any business.” “It’s been a blast,” John said. “Anyone who has a After building the website, John took on more responsibility. chance to work with a parent should do it. If you don’t, “I wanted him in on it,” Robb said. “He wanted in on it. It took a you’re missing a unique opportunity. The older I get while to figure out the details. It doesn’t come with one epiphany. the more I realize that time is short. Why wouldn’t Every father and son have their own way of doing it. It’s up to the you work with someone you love?” parents to adjust as well as the kids. I can’t bark at him like when he was 23.” John now runs the business side of Cathedral Ridge while Robb grows the grapes and oversees the winemaking. “I’m responsible for marketing and direct-to-consumer sales, and brand experience consistency,” John said. “He makes the wine, I put in the traffic. We want to develop a relationship with our customers. The greater the relationship, the more they enjoy the wine and become wine club members.” John Bell PHOTOS BY KATHY POTHIER PHOTOGRAPHY S I P M A G A Z I N E 33

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Three generations of Williams have given their time, sweat and toil into making the Red Mountain AVA a world-class vineyard site. John, Scott and JJ Williams the property. “He had to bring in power, lay down a gravel road and dig a well. People thought he was nuts.” Kiona Vineyards And Winery Growing up on Red Mountain, JJ gained a unique insight into the business of growing grapes and making wine. At age Terroir is sometimes considered just dirt and climate. But 14, he began working for his dad, Scott Williams, and even- if you look at famous wine regions around the globe like tually served as the youngest member of the Red Mountain Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Mosel Valley, or Washington’s American Viticultural Area (AVA). Red Mountain, it’s clear the people who founded the region are also an integral part of its terroir. “You could take 10 steps out the front door and you’d be in a vineyard,” he said. “It’s a heck of a way to grow up. For No family can claim responsibility for the creation of Red others being in a vineyard is so romantic, but for us, it was Mountain quite like the Williams family, owners of Kiona digging a lot of ditches.” Vineyards and Winery. Their creation story began when John Williams purchased property on a desolate patch of dirt out- He credits his dad, Scott, with transforming those 12 side the Tri Cities and planted a vineyard in 1975 that would acres into today’s storied 272-acre property. later become part of the Red Mountain AVA. “Way back when, it was a fool’s journey,” said Scott. “My grandfather decided to pour his life savings into plant- “There was no market, but we had to keep going for- ing a 12-acre vineyard,” said JJ Williams, general manager of ward. We’re still kicking, which all by itself is quite an achievement.” Today, Scott grows the grapes and serves as the fix-it guy for the property. Early on, he involved his family in farming and running the business. That paid off when JJ became sales manager in 2009 and son Tyler became the winemaker in 2019. “I’m glad I have JJ,” Scott said. “Growing up he expressed interest in the business. I told him when he went off to school, ‘We have a yahoo farmer and an engineer in the family. We need a businessman. He started out doing the sales and marketing. Now he runs the business.” Tyler also expressed an interest in Kiona. After receiving a degree in biology and a master’s in enology, he traveled S I P M A G A Z I N E 34

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JJ Williams Tyler, Scott and JJ Williams the world, apprenticing at wineries in Bordeaux, Sicily, South Africa, Chile, New Zealand, Australia, and several top-tier Washington houses. PHOTO BY KIM FETROW “Before I gave [Tyler] the keys to the car, I had him go back to school for his master’s,” Scott said. “He had to earn it. Handing the keys to the car is just that. You’ve got your license. Let her rip. I don’t tell him what to do.” The family meshes well together, each of the members contributing to the effort, which comes to fruition in bottles like their 2016 Estate Red Mountain Reserve. “The idea behind the wine is to designate geographically, not by grape type,” said JJ. “It’s a blended wine from this place. It’s the best wine we can make in a given vintage.” Such a wine grows out of the time, sweat and toil the Williams have put into making the Red Mountain AVA a world-class vineyard site. “We’re taking the long view on the business,” Scott said. “We own it outright. We want to be around in 100 years.” l THE BEST SELECTION OF AWARD-WINNING WINES IN THE NORTHWEST Choose FROM OVER 28 BIG BOLD REDS, SIGNATURE BLENDS AND DELICIOUS WHITES. OPEN DAILY BY RESERVATION @11AM Hood River, OR. @ 800.516.8710 Dundee, OR. @ 503.537.9977 Carlton, OR. @ 971.708.0708 Learn More and Order at cathedralridgewinery.com S I P M A G A Z I N E 35

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